I remember being in Toledo at lest 25 years ago and it is so different from that era. It's cleaner, better marked, but just as hot and just as hilly and exhausting to get around. There are many streets to meander in what was once the Jewish Quarter and we visited two former synagogues that were converted to churches after the expulsion of the Jews in 1492. First was the site of the El Transito Synagogue which had elaborately intricate wall carvings.
Note the Hebrew inscription running down the side of the decorative panel.
Following the El Transitory, we visited the Santa Maria Synagogue - and if you think the name is a contradiction, wait for the story we heard there. The synagogue became Santa Maria Church and was hosting an exhibit of paintings by Brother Avraham de la Cruz, the founder of the order of Mary Morningstar (Maria Estrella), an order he says is recognized officially by the Catholic Church.
We met Brother Avraham in the garden of Santa Maria and heard his story of growing up in a Jewish household in France during World War II and a convoluted story of his finding peace and love in Christ. The entire session was very moving, disturbing, and thought provoking. His order wears the garb of Brothers, Priests, and Sisters of the Catholic Church, but the crucifix he wears has a Magen David on it. He preaches love for all and claims he is both Catholic and Jewish. He was accompanied by his son, the only priest in this order and he told us he had a daughter who is Jewish and lives in Israel.
This was the perfect Melton experience - hearing the seemingly impossible/contradictory story of this man and trying to figure out how someone like him fits into the story of the Jews of Spain. His order now "cares for" the Santa Maria Synagogue/Church under the auspices of the Vatican - at least that is the story he told us. this infuriated many members of our Melton group. Being ever the shy type, I asked him how he could join a church that had persecuted and killed his ancestors He gave me a look of "peace" and said that his group is about love and finding common ground. I didn't buy it, but a few members of our group found him sincere and well-meaning. This led to quite a long debriefing and discussion on the bus to Cordoba later in the afternoon.
After the session with Brother Avraham we walked the narrow winding streets of Toledo enjoying the decorative tiles and carvings on buildings and the fascinating array of wooden doors. I could make a photo trip on just shooting the doors of Spanish cities.
We crossed the bridge by foot to leave Toledo and meet our bus for the drive to Cordoba.
Cordoba, in the south of Spain, was 42 degrees Celsius (about 107 degrees Fahrenheit) when we arrived, and that was in the shade. it has been hot all along - 80's and 90's every day - but now the heat was just impossible. we did a quick driving tour of the city.
and then went to dinner for a Kosher meal at the Jewish Museum.
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