Friday 9/16/11 Granada and the Alhambra

Today was devoted to touring the Alhambra with our local guide, Pablo. I was fascinated by the tile patterns and intricately carved decorations on doors and walls the last time I was in Spain (more than thirty years ago). Today I'm seeing it through new eyes - the eyes of one who has studied and taught about tessellations, symmetries, and patterns. The number of patterns, their intricacies, their layering, the decorations so fanciful and exquisite - it is totally overwhelming to the senses. I don't know where to look first, where to start photographing, where to concentrate my efforts. The Alhambra is a sumptuous feast for the eyes, literally dripping with richness and detail.

First, some history and background. The Alhambra is a palace/fortress complex whose name means "the red fortress" because of the red clay in the region. It was built for the last Muslim rulers of Granada in the mid 14th century. After the expulsion of the Moslems in 1492, parts of the complex were used, and the architecture adapted, by the Catholic kings. Columned arcades, fanciful gardens, reflecting pools, and fountains with running water are the main features of the complex. While each room is elaborately decorated on it's walls, ceilings, doors, and floors, the exterior is plain and austere.


Geometrical designs abound in the interior, including tessellating shapes on tiles and regular symmetric patterns. Here are just a few examples.
















We also had a tour of the formal gardens.


A study session on poetry written by Jews from the Granada area in the time of the Alhambra's use followed our tour.

After a quick picnic lunch in the main park of Granada, we boarded the bus for the long ride back to Madrid for Shabbat. We arrived with little time to spare in order to attend Kabbalat Shabbat services at the Madrid synagogue. Security is quite heavy. Upon entering the street, the first thing we noticed were the plain clothed security guards at the beginning, middle and end of the street. There was also a police car outside the synagogue. We were questioned before entering the first door and had to show our passports and submit to more rigorous questioning before being allowed through the second security door. It had quite a chilling effect and made me appreciate the freedom of attending services (usually) without security in the US. I loved sitting and listening to the chanting - feeling the rhythm of Shabbat despite being so far from home. We had dinner at the synagogue with some members of the Madrid Jewish community and some visiting students.


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