Friday, September 16, 2011

Thursday 9/15 Seville

Started the day in Seville after a lovely dinner last night with new Melton friends, Sara Kushnir and Betty Sobelman. One of the delights of Melton trips is the new friends you make from all over the world. The day in Cordoba was exhausting physically from the heat and walking, and exhausting mentally from all we were learning. Today was no different. The heat and sun are unbelievable - on the one hand wonderful since we Rochesterians always crave sun, but on the other hand debilitating because it is so intense.

Our first stop was the Plaza de España from the 1929 Exposition. With it's four bridges, interesting reflections, and wonderful small exhibits for each region, it is a wonder to behold.












We next went to the Royal Palace, or Alcazar, where you can see three architectural styles. Along the way we passed a Kapok tree with beautiful blossoms.





To get there we wandered through the narrow, winding streets of the Jewish Quarter, now the Santa Cruz neighborhood, but virtually nothing remains.

The Alcazar was the king's palace and in many ways is a mini-version of the famous Alhambra we will be visiting tomorrow in Granada. The architectural style is layered, with one culture building or improving on the other using a different style. In the main reception room you can see the layers clearly since the bottom style is Moslem, in the middle is the Mudjihar architecture, and at the top is the European Romanesque influence. It is incredibly ornate and lavish, including four balconies high up on the walls for secretly observing who is waiting in the reception hall.





The Alcazar includes a reflection pool and beautiful carvings on the walls.











Our last stop before lunch was the Cathedral of Seville. This magnificent edifice shows the wealth and power of the Catholic Church. The alter is one of the largest in the world and is carved in wood and covered with gold leaf. The ostentation and riches displayed here are overwhelming.


The cathedral has a tomb where Christopher Columbus was interred upon his death in 1506, but his remains are no longer there. They were moved in 1542 by his son to Colonial Santo Domingo (in the modern day Dominican Republic) where the son lived and had a family tomb.



We break for a late lunch and Eric and I wander the streets and stop at a café for a cold drink and to "people watch." This is one of the great delights in Spain - just having time to sit, sip, and schmooze. Unfortunately, there is little time to do this with all that is packed into the Melton program.

A long afternoon drive brings us to the city of Granada. After a quick stop to get a view of the city from an overlook point, we head to the hotel, but our bus cannot make it down the narrow streets. We end up with a five to ten minute walk from the bus, dragging our suitcases behind us. People sitting in sidewalk cafés stare at us and we truly feel like the Jews being expelled from Spain carrying our worldly goods with us.

Cleverly, Haim decides to have an extra study session to bring our minds back to our theme. After a half hour to either rest, or in our case shower and change, we come together and grapple with our positive and negative feelings about what has happened to the Jews of Spain. It is an excellent session and we all feel a lot better. A fabulous dinner in a café continues to revive our spirits - and the wine didn't hurt either.

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